Italy in the Shoulder Season: Where to Go in May, June, September and October
August is the busiest month of the year in Italy. According to Istat, Italy's national statistics office, hotels and other places to stay counted about 81 million nights in August 2024. That was the peak of the whole year.
I know this difference well. I studied tourism in Rome and worked as an assistant hotel manager on the island of Elba, where I saw how much an island can change in just a few weeks. So when a friend asks me when to go, my answer is almost always the same: in the shoulder season.
What is the shoulder season?
It's the weeks just before and just after summer: roughly May, June, September and October. It isn't the low season, when many places close. It's that in-between time when Italy is open and lively, but not overrun.
Crowded summers aren't just an Italian problem. According to Eurostat, about 31% of all nights spent in tourist accommodation in the European Union in 2025 fell in July and August. And in 2022 the EU region with the most "squeezed" season was one of ours: Calabria, with almost two nights out of three in those two months.
Why it's worth it, for you and for your hosts
First, time: shorter queues, less traffic, more room to stop and look around. Then money: in the shoulder season rooms often cost less, and finding a last-minute bed is easier. And finally, the experience. The weather is milder, the restaurant owner has time to tell you about the dish of the day, and the town feels like a town again, not a film set.
There's a responsible side too. People who work in tourism often live on short, packed seasons. Every visitor who comes in May or October helps make the season longer and the work steadier.
May: art cities, lakes and wineries
May is perfect for art cities, before the real heat. Rome, Florence, Verona or Naples are easy to explore on foot. It's also the month of gardens in bloom on the lakes, from Garda to Lake Como, and of the coastal paths in Liguria, while walking is still a pleasure.
If you love wine, save the date for Cantine Aperte ("Open Wineries"): a spring weekend when the wineries taking part open their doors for visits and tastings. It's run by the Movimento Turismo del Vino, a wine tourism association.
June: the islands before the crowds
The first half of June is my favourite time for the islands. The days are very long, the sea is starting to warm up, and the ferries aren't full yet. Elba, Procida, Sardinia or the Aeolian Islands show a different face before July.
A tip from a former assistant hotel manager: avoid the long weekend around 2 June, Italy's Republic Day. Half the country has the same idea as you.
September: warm sea and grape harvest
September is the best-kept secret of the Italian summer. The sea is still warm, the beaches empty out and the evenings get cooler. Puglia, Sicily and Calabria are at their best right now.
It's also harvest month. With Cantine Aperte in Vendemmia ("Open Wineries at Harvest"), in September and October, many wineries welcome visitors to see the grape picking up close. Chianti, the Langhe, Franciacorta: pick your area and book ahead.
October: colours, flavours and quiet cities
October brings autumn colours to the woods of the Apennines and the Alps, and village food fairs for mushrooms, chestnuts and truffles. It's also a great month for cities: the days are often still mild and museums feel less crowded.
Just remember that the days get shorter. At the seaside, many beach clubs have already closed by October, so check before you go.
My practical checklist
Check opening times: ferries, museums and restaurants may keep shorter hours outside summer.
Pack layers: cool mornings, warm afternoons.
Avoid Italian long weekends: 25 April, 1 May, 2 June and 1 November fill roads and hotels.
Still book the most famous sights: big museums have visitors all year round.
Take the train when you can: it's easy, and the car stays at home.
Ask your host: in the shoulder season they have more time to point you to the right places.
What about you? What's your favourite month to travel in Italy? Is there a place you only love out of season? Tell me in the comments.
Thinking of Rome in autumn? Claudia goes deeper on blogness.org: New Things to Do in Rome in Autumn Winter 2026.
Sources and further reading
Photo: Greta Farnedi / Unsplash
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